Everest Base Camp: The Logistic Experience
Reflections upon my life-long-dream experience trekking to Everest Base Camp in March…
A little back drop: in 1997 my dad took me to watch Everest in IMAX at the Museum of Science, Boston. I clearly remember the opening scene of an epic avalanche cascading down the mountain, overpowering the larger-than-life movie screen and its audience. I felt total awe and wonder in realizing just how small we humans compare to Goddess Mother Earth.
At the same time, a seed was planted and I felt called to meet that goddess firsthand. Can hardly believe that time is now!
Day 1 – Kathmandu
(March 15, 2019)
Arrived at Fuji hotel in Thamel to meet the G-Adventures group and went out to dinner
Packed our bags, which they provided, and ensured that the duffle (to be carried by the porters – 2-3 per porter) weighed less than 10kg (22lb) and our rucksack/day bag weighed 5kg (11lb) or less
Fun to be around other mountain-philes sharing the same intentions/reasons for being on this trip – added benefit of being with a group on this experience! Also found that by being in a group you never get tired of your company, there’s always a new conversation to be had, or space to yourself if you’d like it.
Day 2 – Flight to Lukla → Trek to Phakding, 2,660m / 8,727ft (Shangrila Lodge)
(March 16)
We took a beautiful 35 minute early morning flight up to Lukla (the left side of the plane had spectacular views of the high Himalays).
Approx. 4 hour trek (including rest stops, tea breaks, pee breaks) mostly downhill to Phaking. About 8.5km walk through several Sherpa settlements and local monuments
Be sure to walk to the left/clockwise around any Buddhist structures, flags, stones
Very green and lush part of the trek!
This is where we were introduced to the “Nepali Flats” aka going up to gain some elevation, only to descend down and lose elevation throughout the course of the day. Different levels of the trek included “Nepali Flat,” gradual, gentle and steep.
Upon arriving we unpacked our bags, sipped some tea and continued to trek beyond our resting point to a Buddhist monastery perched on a cliff. One of my first times being in a Buddhist house of worship, though it certainly wouldn’t be my last both on this trip and otherwise!
When we finally concluded our first day of trekking, I guided some of the crew in gentle yoga in the lodge’s halls… subsequently receiving the nickname Granola for the rest of the trip.
Day 3 – Trek to Namche Bazaar, 3,440m / 11,286ft (Snowland)
(March 17)
After breakfast we began trekking to Namche Bazaar for 7.5 hours/12 km. In reflection, this felt like one of the most challenging days due to how much elevation we gained (800m/2624ft) in addition to being one of our first long hauls.
Despite the challenge, though, we had beautiful scenery with a mixture of flora and fauna along the trails. We also crossed along 5 suspension bridges, including the Everest bridge, as featured in the opening scene of Everest, the movie.
Namche Bazaar is the unofficial capital of the Khumbu region, as it acts as the convergence point between numerous other high-altitude treks. In Namche you’ll find the self-proclaimed world’s highest Irish pub, which not only tickled the drinking fancy of several members from our group, but also provided free wifi, charging ports and a furnace – all hot commodities on the route.
In case you forgot any supplies, North Face gear included, you can find them at this trading post, mountain-side town.
I decided to start taking Diamox on Day 4 to help prevent altitude sickness; I picked up 10 500mg Diamox tablets in Kathmandu for about $2.50 and split them in half to take one in the morning and one in the evening each day. I figured it couldn’t hurt, only help!
Oxygen level: 88 compared to sea level of 100
Day 4 – Rest day / test day at Namche Bazaar
(March 18)
Our first official rest day was also an altitude test day. We hiked up to a tea house in Syangboche at 3860m (close to the following day’s peak elevation) in order to acclimatize our bodies. Total walking time is about 3 hours & distance of 3.5km.
At the end of each day, in addition to our following day’s briefing, we received an oxygen monitoring. To ensure that we weren’t becoming susceptible to altitude sickness, which can sneak up on you at any moment, Pasang Sherpa (our lead) tracked our blood oxygen levels and if we were experiencing any of the following: headache, nausea, lack of appetite, quality of sleep, exhaustion.
Emerging science suggests rest days to be taken exactly as such: rest, without any hiking or strenuous movement. Traditional high-altitude physicians recommend following what we did, which was going to a higher elevation in a shorter hike and then coming back down to a lower elevation to recover.
Wifi is available at spots throughout the trek for a nominal fee – I decided to opt out of being plugged in and didn’t reconnect until we passed through Namche on our way down, mainly to alert friends/family that I had survived :)
Had it not been snowing, this day would have been the first time to see Everest amongst other 8,000m peaks.
After our test hike, we watched a documentary on Sherpas in town. I left with an entirely new amount of respect for them + their culture. The business of getting people up the mountain is a massive risk these local people take, and for such little money. The documentary reminded me just how human these people are, and while they can acclimatize easier than many others, the work is still incredibly demanding and dangerous.
Oxygen level: 92
Day 5 – Trek to Tenboche, 3,880m / 12,730ft (Tashi Delek Lodge)
(March 19)
We walked about 5.5 hours / 9km and ascended 440m/1443 feet and witnessed our first views of Everest’s summit! We received clear, stunning views of Ama Dablam (translated to beautiful mountain), powerful views of Everest’s neighbor Lhotse.
The first portion of the trek was a gentle downhill to our lunch spot and filled with magnificent views. I was in awe of the natural beauty surrounding me and recognized that I need to prioritize more treks like this in my short life.
Following a lunch alongside a suspension bridge, we had a steep hike up to our resting spot. Fortunately, upon arriving at Tashi Delek Lodge, we were encouraged to indulge in hot chocolate, allegedly some of the best on the mountain. More often than not, we would arrive in a guest house to some honey, lemon, ginger tea (great for coaxing the throat in the dry air as well as soothing the belly) – but it was worth splurging after that steep uphill in the cold.
Tenboche is home to a Buddhist monastery that we were encouraged to visit and witness their ceremony. While there, I chose to sit and take in the energy of the high Himalayas, which resonates with the mantra “Om mani padme hum” – a wish for compassion to all sentient beings. Knowing the monastery closed to visitors in about 45 minutes, a little magic moment happened as I felt guided to wrap up at the same time that the monk asked us to depart.
Oxygen level: 93
Day 6 – Trek to Dingboche, 4,350m / 14,272ft (Peaceful Lodge)
(March 20)
A 6 hour walk brought us to Dingboche and slightly higher upon arrival. It was on this day that we ascended above the tree line.
Awoke to witnessing sunrise over Everest’s peak, as the sun shone its rays down from Ama Dablam.
Relatively easy start to the day, just focused on managing the altitude which manifested in the form of a slight headache throughout the day. Then the incline proved a little difficult, followed by feeling the cold.
Took ibuprofen to help manage the headache and drank tons and tons of water. That’s one of the least fun parts about Diamox, as it’s a diuretic you have to overcompensate with water consumption so it doesn’t deplete your kidneys/liver. Which means lots of pee breaks in squatting toilets and behind rocks.
Started using tablets to purify my water, which helped save money but also contributed to some bloating (likely in addition to the altitude)… and bloating led to gas which meant I walked a bit slower at the back of the pack that day.
Felt incredibly grateful for my body, boots, Diamox, echinacea, chlorella, ear plugs, warm blankets at the lodges (in addition to the sleeping bags), for western toilets, for glacial water. Tried to remind myself of the good as it began to get difficult.
Learned how to flush water in toilets!
Oxygen level: 86 (82 is average at this altitude)
Day 7 – Rest day / test day at Dingboche
(March 21)
This was our second acclimatization day. We hiked to Nagarzung hill 4700m (15,040ft), a total of 3 hours walking time. This was a steep hike that caused me to be short of breath often, however our guides aided us in stopping at appropriate points.
An overall benefit of trekking with a group/guides is that they keep you on pace, which, for me, was in slowing me down so as to not exhaust my energy resources.
Due to the high altitude and Diamox, nearly everyone was experiencing vivid dreams, often related to anxiety or fear.
Today was many people’s first hot ‘shower’ aka bucket shower in a week. I opted out for cost and because it just seemed too cold to strip down and try to wash my hair/body when I knew it would be gross again soon. Grateful for baby wipes!
Oxygen level: remained at 86, which meant I was acclimatizing nicely.
Day 8 – Trek to Lobuche, 4,910m / 16,109ft (National Park Lodge)
(March 22)
We walked around 5 hours on a very gradual incline to our resting lodge. The incline was probably the easiest component of that day’s trek – the sheer power of wind, sun and thin air reminded me how hostile of an environment we chose to enter.
Noticed many in the group had a cough, a minor headache, difficulty sleeping, or a combination of them – all normal components of being up so high. I noticed that some cuts were healing really slowly.
Hiked through the powerful Everest memorial site and saw Rob Hall’s tomb upon entering.
National Park Lodge was one of the coldest spots we stayed in, with one of its western toilets completely frozen and a patch of ice outside of my room. But hey, it’s all temporary!
After dropping off our bags and enjoying some mint tea for a change, we took a breathtaking (literally and figuratively) acclimatization hike to get a 360º view of the Khumbu Glacier, Gorakshep and Kala Patthar. I could’ve stayed up there for hours.
Upon returning down to the lodge, I led some light stretches in the last patch of sunlight before huddling around the teahouse’s stove for glimpses of warmth.
Oxygen level: 82 (average 72)
Day 9 – Trek to Gorakshep, 5,180m / 16,995ft → Everest Base Camp, 5,364m / 17,598ft
(March 23)
Program notes: “Yahoo! We will be reaching Everest Base Camp today – we will reach Gorakshep by 3 hours. After lunch we do total 5-hour hike to EBC and return back to Gorakshep.”
Lots of excitement started to build as we realized we would actually be reaching our goal destination of EBC! We were extremely lucky and could see Everest’s summit for a good duration of the trek.
The trek was on the more difficult side, mostly because it required immense presence as we carefully placed our feet from one stone to the next, without making a stumble. It was, as you can imagine, rather cold up there too, and we wanted to make it there and back before the winds picked up around 3pm, so we had an earlier start day than most.
I experienced several epiphanies this day, which will be mapped out in a separate post, but it was an emotional experience to actually arrive at Base Camp as a team – we celebrated with hugs, high fives, lemon, ginger, honey tea, as well as a carrot cake for Courtney’s belated birthday!
Each day on this journey felt like one of the best days of my life, and Day 9 was no different!
No oxygen test was given that night – if you were still feeling good and wanted to do Kala Patthar in the morning then Pasang Sherpa said we were a go!
Day 10 – Trek to Kala Patthar, 5,545m / 18,192ft + descend down to Periche, 4,270m / 14,009ft (Panorama View Lodge)
(March 24)
Early in the morning (5:00a.m.) we hiked to Kala Patthar, best known for its 360º view of the Everest Region, which is a 2:30hr hike, strategically timed to arrive when the sun hits Kala Patthar, rather than when it crests the mountains because it’s so cold up there you can’t last more than 10 minutes without sun.
That morning was the last time we were to take Diamox, if we were on it, because everything was downhill from there.
The trek up was very challenging for most people, merely due to the rapid elevation increase and incline, but I felt it approachable (probably helps I had a full 8 hour night of rest before). The views at the top were the best views my eyes have ever seen, and I felt as though I was flying down the mountain, arms stretched wide, taking in the majestic power of the nearby Himalayas.
This was a highlight of my experience, my life.
Once again I felt deeply thankful. Grateful for my boots, knees, yoga practice, sleep, my life and its potential, sobriety, challenged to walk my own spiritual path without a sangha, physical health while being exposed to the elements, love, whispers from the Himalayas, and inspiration to travel + trek more this year!
After breakfast, we trekked down to Periche, an additional walk of about 6:30hr. The majority of the walk was a gradual descent after passing through the glacier.
Several people enjoyed their first or second hot shower of the trip (this time it was an actual showerhead, rather than a bucket).
This was the first time in several nights I didn’t feel the need to wear my down jacket to bed.
Day 11 – Down to Kenjuma, 3,570m / 11,713ft (Ama Dablam Lodge)
(March 25)
Periche, where we started, is home to the closest medical facilities for climbers/trekkers. It also featured a memorial for every single person who has died on Mount Everest. About 2-3 deaths per year; 293 have died in total. Really powerful to just imagine the hard work those doctors do for the climbers, day in and day out.
Total walking time descending 7 hours.
Was down to one layer of pants – hurray! Felt like a mistake at the beginning, but by the end of the day was grateful to have stripped down.
Found out that trekking tour companies stagger their start dates to make space for each other as people head up the mountains.
Also learned that about 900 people are attempting to summit Everest this year, the biggest amount so far.
Had my first fall on the descent down and landed my entire body weight on my right wrist. At first I felt a little shocked and in awe of what just happened, but after the initial awareness and a few wrist rotations I realized there was no harm done! Felt incredibly grateful for chaturangas in that moment.
Side note: I have fallen once in each new country that I’ve gone to, typically while engaging with a (new) friend: India on a hike, Bali after yoga class, Vietnam in a restaurant and now Nepal!
Additionally, I felt grateful for my yoga practice preparing me for the physicality of this trip and my meditation for the mentality. Both lay the groundwork for the emergence of a spiritual aspect.
Day 12 – Down to Monjo/Chumoa, 2,790m / 9,154ft (Chumoa Guest House)
(March 26)
Total walking time was 5 hours.
After waking up from a consecutive 8-hour sleep (the first on the trip; most nights are interrupted by at least one wakeup call from nature aka peeing), I agreed with Pasang Sherpa’s declaration that this would be our most restful night.
It snowed during the night and we woke up to a serene, white surrounding that reminded me of waking up on Christmas morning.
This morning was probably one of my favorites, not only because we had our own private bathrooms, but because breakfast was so yummy and I topped it off with the most delicious chocolate donut! The bakery was calling my name as soon as we landed the night before and that donut quite literally changed my life – it felt like the sweetest reward for all the hard work (far tastier than any of the chocolate I brought up with me). Very rarely have I felt like I actually deserved a treat for my hard work, despite often convincing myself otherwise.
After breakfast Pasang Sherpa pitched a snowball at me and war was on! The group proceeded to hail snowballs at each other, delaying the 5 hour descent ahead. What a blast! The whole morning took me back to childhood.
We passed through Namche Bazaar on our way down, connected to wifi for a couple hours, some of the guys had a few beers at the Irish Pub, and we continued back down the steep descent and across the Everest Bridge, running into panting groups ascending in the opposite direction.
Day 13 – Trek to Lukla, 2,830m / 9,285ft (Mera Lodge)
(March 27)
It took us a total of 5 hours across Nepali flats to arrive back at Lukla, which meant we actually ended at a higher than where we started. In light of this, some of the group found today to be the last challenge, whereas others saw Day 11 as the final push.
Hurray we have completed the trek! Time to bid farewell to our supporting trekking crew members. We all went out for drinks in Lukla (nearby the crazy airport!), shared our thanks for our support team (assistants + porters), and had a couple more drinks (my first time drinking in nearly two months!)
Day 14 – Early morning flight to Kathmandu
(March 28)
Thankfully we had Pasang to caravan us through the organized chaos that is Lukla early in the morning. As the weather changes in an instant and had been variable the past few days, Pasang wanted to ensure we were aboard one of the first flights out, meaning a 5 a.m. wakeup call abruptly rattled me out of my post-Sherpa-IPA haze.
This runway/landing strip is situated on the edge of a mountain and on a slope. This way planes taking off gain extra speed as they race down the runway, whereas planes landing are slowed down by the inclined slope. Makes for a thrilling experience on both ends! Personally, I found the initial landing to be scarier, considering the airplane pitched down to position itself in line with the runway.
We had the rest of the day off to enjoy Kathmandu before going out to our final group dinner.
