Five Days in Bhutan, the Hidden Buddhist Kingdom in the Himalayas
A few days before taking off for my proposed twelve-month solo journey around the world, my mom and I stood in her Southern California home, looking at maps, contemplating my journey, the places it would take me.
Knowing I would be trekking to Everest Base Camp in Nepal, my eyes glanced at its neighboring lesser-known, landlocked Kingdom of Bhutan.
Nestled between the two big powerhouses China and India, I had only heard whispers of this tiny kingdom. One of those whispers being that it has the highest level of Gross National Happiness, another being that it is the world’s only carbon-negative country!
For all its bliss and lack of pollution came a hefty international price tag, though.
We quickly did a little bit of research, enough to rule out that this was beyond my budget with a visa cost at $200/day during low season and $250/day at high season. As beautiful and biodiverse, as happy and peaceful, as clean and serene as it all sounded, it just didn’t seem fiscally responsible to visit.
That was, until I met a fellow Girls Love Travel member in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, who had just landed back in Vietnam from a visit to Bhutan with her dad. She could not sing its praises highly enough and quickly cleared up a few misconceptions for me:
Yes, it is expensive to visit per day, but that price is all inclusive of your private tour guides, luxe accommodations, meals, water, excursions, and visa fee. (Souvenirs, non-water drinks, tips, travel insurance excluded.)
Tour groups will advise that you visit for 10-14 days, but given that it’s such a small country, you can easily see and do a lot with 5 days/4 nights, as she had just done.
There’s a savings if you travel with someone and share a room.
Bhutan values “low-quantity-high-impact tourism” which is the intention behind the high price, but that also means you’ll have one of the best tour experiences of your life while there!
At this point, I became intrigued, but still a little apprehensive at the cost. How could I reasonably spend my precious savings ($1,250 of it) on just 5 days?
Enter: my dear friends. These are the friends that have helped me recognize the value of experiences, the importance of living in the moment, and a general trust in the universe for providing abundance (experience, love and finances). So, I began to contemplate…
⤀ If I saved up this money, why not use it?
⤀ I have 10 days between EBC in Nepal and my 300-hour YTT in India… what to do with this time?
⤀ When else am I already going to be in this area of the world?
Okay, screw it – I’m going to Bhutan!
I reached out to the travel company my new friend referred me to, Bridge to Bhutan, and within a few emails, providing my visa application info (which they manage) and wiring them $1250 for the tour + $450 for the roundtrip flight to/from Kathmandu – I was good to go. Nothing else was required of me other than showing up for my flight!
Side note: for those wondering, I did meet a certain someone while traveling in Bali whom I invited to join me for this leg of my journey (perhaps selfishly, given the aforementioned savings). He and I decided to have a go at it and test the (international) waters of our dynamic and explore Bhutan together!
+ Spoiler alert: I’m scribing this from Bali where we’re currently shacked up ;)
Program Outline:
2 April: Arrive in Paro, 1-hour drive to Thimphu – Pamtsho Lodge
3 April: 3-hour drive to Punakha via scenic Dochola pass – Hotel Lobesa
4 April: Drive back to Thimphu
5 April: Morning drive to Paro; day excursion hike to Tiger’s Nest Monastery (5-6 hour roundtrip) – Khangkhu Resort
6 April: Catch flight back to Kathmandu
National Museum
The museum visually introduces the Kingdom of Bhutan’s history, rich culture and vast biodiversity. It’s perched up next to an ancient watchtower overlooking Paro’s valley.
Bhutan at a Glance
Area: 38,394 km2
Elevation: Varying from 180m (600ft) to 7,550m (24,700ft) above sea level
Population: 720,679 (2012); life expectancy: 66 years
Capital: Thimphu (the only capital without traffic lights)
International Airport: Paro (only aiport), 60km from Thimphu (45 min trive)
Official Language: Dzongkha (‘D’ is silent when pronounced), though English is widely used/spoken in school and urban areas
Religion: Predominantly Vajrayana Buddhism (Tantric Buddhism)
Local time: 6+ hours GMT
Currency: Ngultrum (on par with Indian rupee)
Forest Span: 72%
Agricultural Area: 7.8%
National Sport: Traditional archery
National Animal: Takin
National Flower: Blue poppy
National Tree: Tsenden (Himalyalca cypress)
National Bird: Raven
Major Exports: Clean energy (hydroelectricity), tourism and cash crops
Thimphu Memorial Chorten/Stupa
Where the pious, young and old alike gather every morning and evening to circumambulate (accumulate merit), making a favorite spot for the locals. The Stupa was built in 1974 in honor of the late Third King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, popularly known as the father of modern Bhutan.
Docho La Mountain Pass (10,000ft elevation)
On a clear day, we got to enjoy beautiful 360° views of the Himalaya mountain range. The beauty of this place is further enhanced by the Druk Wangyal Chortens, 108 stupas built by the eldest Queen Mother her Majesty Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuk.
Chhimi Lhkhang (Divine Madman Temple)
This temple is dedicated to the great 14th Century Yogi known as Drukpa Kuenley, or popularly known as the “Divine Madman.” He preached in a way that was unlike the stiffness of clergy and society of the time; he dramatized the teachings using songs and outrageous sexual humor. Bold phallus symbols and paintings on the houses or temples are as a result of his influence to date. It is believed that this temple blesses women who seek fertility; hence it is also called the “Temple of Fertility.” A popular pilgrimage spot for the Bhutanese, childless couples and parents who have difficulty raising children.
Punakha Dzong (Fortress)
Situated between the two rivers Pho Chu and Mochu (Male and Female River), this fortress is now used as the winter seat of Je Khenpo (the spiritual head of Bhutan). This Dzong served as the capital seat of the Kingdom for more than 300 years.
Thimphu Farmer’s Market
This market running Thursday through Sunday is the largest in the country and where villagers from nearby valleys sell their farm’s produce. The upstairs is dedicated to all local and organic produce, whereas the abundant downstairs primarily carries imports from India.
Thimphu
The only capital without traffic lights
Takin Preserve
With its strange look, the Takin (national animal of Bhutan) does lives up to its legendary creation.
Sangaygang Hike overlooking Thimphu
With such low tourism, we didn’t see any other trekkers during this this gentle hike. Not every day that happens in Southern California, for sure.
Tiger’s Nest Monastery
Built in the 1600s, this incredible monastery clings to the edge of a sheer rock cliff that plunges 900 meters into the valley below. It is believe that, in the 8th century, Guru Rimpoche, the Tantric mystic who brought Buddhism to Bhutan, landed here on the back of a flying tigress to subdue a demon. Guru Rimpoche is believed to have meditated here for three months and it is considered one of the holiest sites for Buddhists.
I personally experienced profound, unparalleled energy while meditating in this monastery (no photos were allowed inside – you’ll just have to put it on your list to see for yourself!).
It was hard to leave this pristine environment, luxe accommodations, and quiet streets nestled in the Himalayas, but at least the airport made for a beautiful last taste of the country!
Please feel free to reach out to me to get in touch with Bridge to Bhutan if you’re considering a trip - I’d absolutely recommend it!
